On the road again, to the whitest city we’ve seen since Coeur d’Alene. Seriously. San Miguel de Allende has more Canadians/Expats running around then we could have imagined.
Thanks to those friendly canucks the city center is clean and well kept and full of cute cafes, shops and restaurants.
We were a little taken back by the gringo pricing on most everything we looked at – from our mediocre Thai lunch to the Canadian owned RV park. ($400 MXP per night – ouchie). We wandered around, found some good beer and enjoyed our evening in the main square watching dusk fall upon the beautiful church Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel.
Us being cheap and this being a little sliver of Canada we decided it was safe to street camp it for the night on a fancy side of town down the block from a police station…we woke up to the sounds of someone using a hacksaw to cut through the bike lock on the front of the truck. It took a moment to realize what that noise was, I hopped out of bed, grabbed our bear spray and a flashlight, and jump out of the back of the camper. If the bear spray didn’t work surely the sight of a pasty unkempt gringo in his underwear would at least catch them off guard. But lucky for me/them they ran off at the sound of the door opening. Little fuck-tards didn’t cut all the way through but they did manage to make off with my rear tire. The next day was spent visiting a few bike shops in town for all the necessary pieces to make my bike ridable again.
Eventually we found our way to the massive Tuesday market where we were told we’d have a good chance of finding everything we were looking for, and likely finding the exact missing tire we had “lost”…didn’t find mine but we ended up buying someone else’s rear tire. And that’s the circle of life.
Anxious to get the hell out of this grossly cute overpriced city we packed up mid-afternoon and set our sights on Queretaro where I had an old acquaintance, Alexander, from a brewery engineering course I had been sent to a few years back (harkening back to the Left Hand days). He offered to host, house, feed and fill us up with good beer. Yes please!
We met the whole brew crew, an awesome bunch of people, spent that night drinking and eating like we had jobs. Their brewery not only makes the best beer and some of the best food we’ve had since crossing the border, it sits in an amazing old textile factory that is worth a visit just for the architecture and history.
Seriously every hipster would cream in their overly tight panties over this place. Parts of the structure date back to the 1500’s when this building was one of the production epicenters in the country. The sprawling structure was painstakingly restored and remodeled to it’s current state. It’s what all those newly built, exposed brick-walled, industrial-vibed packed with hipsters dotting every major city in the states wishes it could be.
We camped outside of our new friend Alexander’s place in one of the courtyards of the sprawling property and in the morning, after walking off our hangovers and enjoying all the street art in that funky little part of town, we said our thanks and goodbyes.
We were bound for Grutas Tolantongo before the massive weekend crowds made the place untouchable, (for us at least). Ain’t no party like a Mexican party cause a Mexican party literally goes alllll night usually with Ranchera or shit house music turned up to 12. I have a theory that speakers sold in Mexico, and believe me there is a speaker store in every single town in Mexico no matter how big or small, do not come with volume knobs, only on/off switches (Fiesta!!!!!/Dormir)
Anyway Grutas was one of the highlights of the trip up until this point. We had the place basically to ourselves. Amazing hot pools clinging to the side of a mountain with a hot river flowing below.
We spent two nights here and wanted to spend more but it was Friday morning and we’d observed the massive shipments of beer and michelada mix arriving. (Delicious BTW, if you don’t know what it is do yourself a favor)
Time to go, the slow way, to Teotihuacan.